Hemming device



Dec. 2, 1969 T. M. DANAHY 3,481,292

HEMMING DEVI CE Filed March 22, 1968 s Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG. I

INVENTOR. THOMAS M. DANAHY BY 07M T. M. DANAHY HEMMING DEVICE Dec. 2, 1969 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed March 22, 1968 INVENTOR. THOMAS M. DANAHY Dec. 2, 1969 M. DANAHY 3,481,292

HEMMING DEVICE Filed-March 22, 1968 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 T4 l -!e 'l 1 7 w H h 5 INVENTOR. THOMAS M. DANAHY United States Patent 3,481,292 HEMMING DEVICE Thomas M. Danahy, Troy, N.Y., assignor to Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., Troy, N.Y., a corporation of New York Filed Mar. 22, 1968, Ser. No. 715,316 Int. Cl. Db 35/02; D05c 9/10 US. Cl. Ill-121.15 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A hemmer for automatic hemming of garment parts wherein a belt advances a piece through-a stationary folder of unique construction and after the fold is formed, it is held in shape until it is sewn. The hemmer may include a loading mechanism whereby the desired spacing between the pieces is maintained.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates generally to fabric sewing and handling and more particularly to an improved hemming apparatus. The invention provides an improved apparatus for hemming such things as garment parts and includes means for feeding a sewing machine for a hem stitch which allows the operator to readily handle two or more separate machines.

The prior art shows several devices (for example in patents 3,192,885 and 3,296,986) which are of interest because they utilize conveyor belts to advance a piece to a folder. These devices, however, form an S or Z shaped fold which, as will be understood from the description of the instant invention, is different from the fold made by the present invention.

It is known to sew a hem on the edge of fabric with the aid of a guide which customarily precedes the stitching station. In devices of this type, it is necessary to manually insert the fabric into the leading edge of the hemming guide each time a new sewing operation is begun. It is important in the making of garments to relieve machine operators of such cumbersome handling and manipulation of the various elements. By simplifying these hand transport operations, the work of the operator can be simplified and also a substantial increase in production output of a single operator can be realized.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention provides a means of overcoming the various disadvantages found in prior art machines.

In this invention the work is laid on the table by the operator and is then fed toward the sewing head in a straight line by belts which support and confine the hem fold as the work enters the sewing station. The invention obviates the necessity of manually starting the piece in the hemming guide, a task requiring operator expertise. The invention further prevents the workpiece from becoming aligned at an angle such that the leading edge of the hem projects beyond the edge of the piece. This is achieved by the alignment feature which allows the operator to initially align the piece before it enters the folder.

A feature of the present invention is that it provides automatic feeding once the work is placed on a table. The folder itself is not hand-fed but rather is fed completely automatically once the work is placed on a table. The machine may be fed from a stack using various known feeding devices or by hand by an operator. In most present hemmers, the work is hand-fed to a convolute folder, being initially wrapped into the folder and guided until the sewing machine begins to sew the hem. The benefit of having a piece always on deck in the ma- Patented Dec. 2, 1969 chine is of interest particularly when the machine is handfed. The machine then is simultaneously folding one piece and hemming-another and the operator is simply placing a new piece in the machine.

A further feature is that the machine may automatically assure proper spacing between work pieces.

Reducing the number of skills involved and the level of dexterity required, improves production and quality and produces employment possibilities for persons of minimal skill and dexterity.

To accomplish the objects of the present invention, the invention comprises the features hereinafter described and particularly set out in the claims, the description setting forth in detail, certain illustrative embodiments. These embodiments are set out to show some of the many ways in which the principles of the invention may be employed.

DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIGURE 1 is a schematic view looking down on the machine constructed according to the instant invention;

FIGURE 2 is a schematic side view of the apparatus of FIGURE 1.

FIGURES 3, 4, 5 and 6 are cross sectional views of the folder.

FIGURE 7 is an enlarged fragmentary view showing the line of stitching produced as the work passes the stitching point.

FIGURE 8 is a view of the complete folder showing where the sections of FIGURES 3, 4, 5 and 6 are taken.

DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS FIGURE 1 shows a rectangular bed or table 10 which extends generally the length of the hemming machine. The machine includes an upper belt or band assembly designated generally as 1 1 and a lower band assembly designated generally as 21 (and seen in FIGURE 2). A sewing machine 14 is located at one end of the table. A folder 15 is located below the table.

The upper band assembly typically includes two separate, spaced apart endless bands 12 and 13; although one band could be used, in which case it would be preferably wider than the bands shown in the figure. The upper bands ride around sets of idler rollers designated generally as 18 and are typically driven by driver rolls 19 which are geared to motor 20 through suitable means. The motor also drives the sewing machine through suitable gearing and clutching.

Band 12 will bereferred to as the outer band and band 13 will be referred to as the inner band. These bands extend generally from the sewing machine to the opposite end of the table 10. They are typically comprised of endless loops of flexible, high friction material.

Referring now to FIGURE 2, the lower band assembly 21 is similarly comprised of an endless belt,or band 22 which encloses idler rollers designated as 23 and is driven by suitable means such as making one of the idlers a drive roll. Alternatively, the lower band 22 could be driven :by the frictional contact between it and the upper bands. The lower band is typically in intimate contact with at least the inner band 13 and extends generally from the outlet of folder 15 under the sewing machine and to the edge of the table. Built under the table is the long folder 15.

Referring now to FIGURES 3, 4, 5 and 6, the folder consists of an inner horn 16, and an outer shell 17, spaced apart from the horn and generally of the same cross-sectional shape as the horn. Initially, the ellipse of the folder horn is generally vertical as shown in FIGURE 4, but as the ellipse narrows, it tilts until, at the outlet of the folder, it is generally parallel with the plane of the table as shown in FIGURE 6 and feeds between the endless belts 22 and 13. Said another way, the folder cross section along its length is a degenerative ellipse having a constant length along its major axis, which successively rotates about its center and is displaced upward with respect to its center along a vertical axis. The minor axis of the ellipse is made a function of the angle of rotation such that the minor axis approaches zero when the ellipse is horizontal. Preferably the ellipse initially has its major and minor axes approximately equal to each other and is displaced along the vertical axis an amount approximately equal to the length of its major axis. The length of the folder is not critical. However, it preferably should be greater than about five inches to discourage distortion of the piece moving through the folder.

Referring again to FIGURE 1, a trap door 24 is provided in the table adjacent the inlet of the folder and away from the sewing machine. The trap door is edged by a curb 25. The door and curb cooperate with the folder, serving to get the fold started properly as to amount of material needed to form the fold and angularity.

Referring now to FIGURES 3, 4, 5 and 6, the folder is typically an integral part of the table. The folder horn 16 is attached to the underside of the table initially, until the shell 17 begins to wrap the piece completely around the horn. At that point, the horn becomes a mandrel, all the while the cross section changing to an increasingly narrow ellipse until eventually the horn is defined generally by a flat plate.

The upper bands frictionally engage the work and move it along the generally slick table top and serve to advance the work through the folder and under the head of the sewing machine.

The motor 20, which drives the bands, works through a shaft, V belt and gear arrangement that includes a cam 28 and an index switch 29. The switch, through electrical relays, stops and starts the bands by causing the clutch 42 to engage and disengage and opens and closes the trap door to which the switch is operatively connected.

Referring now to FIGURE 2, an air cylinder 26, mounted on the machine raises and lowers a part of the upper bands. The cylinder is attached to the arm 27 which carries the rollers over which the bands move.

A photocell 30 is located at the leading edge of the sewing machine and serves to begin and end the sewing cycle. The cell is operatively connected to the sewing needle and to an automatic trimmer (not shown) which trims the thread. The cell is actuated by the workpiece moving through and interrupting a shaft of light.

The inner band 13 serves to move the piece in a straight line along the length of the table as the hem is formed in the folder. The workpiece is typically beneath this band until it is released after the hem is sewn. The lower band 22 traverses the upper surface of the sewing machine work area extending from just prior to the plate of the folder to a point beyond the sewing machine work area and generally coincident with the end of the inner band 13, and returns under the sewing machine over idlers 23 as previously noted. The lower band serves to capture the fold between the inner band and itself to prevent displacement of the folded workpiece. The workpiece is conveyed to and through the needle station with or without feed dog action. However, if a feed dog 32 is found desirable, the band speed and feed dog feed rate are typically in synchronous movement.

The inner band 13 does not initially contact the piece for its full width once the trap door falls, but as the hemmed portion emerges from the folding guide, the hem is trapped between the inner band and lower band.

In initiating operation, the pivoting section 50 of the band assembly is raised by means of pneumatic cylinder arm 27. The workpiece is then placed on the table 10. At this point the sewing head, i.e., needle, is in the up position. The cycle begins by depressing start switches which activate the air cylinder causing the arm 27 to lower the bands to the bed thereby securing the piece.

The piece can then move only under the influence of the bands and the folder, the frictional contact of the bands with the piece serving to allow the piece to be conveyed along the table toward the sewing station.

When the arm 27 drops, the trap door opens allowing the piece to drape in approximately a position for the amount necessary to obtain the desired fold. This length will differ, depending on the size of the hem desired. In this position, the piece is aligned and ready to be folded. As the belts begin to move, the piece is conveyed along the table, and a portion of it through the folder which slowly causes the free or hanging section of the piece to assume the shape of the desired hem.

The cam 28 attached to the shaft and to gear arrangement 31 which drives the bands, which is made to a predetermined length depending on the length of the piece to be sewn, strikes index switch 29. This switch actuates the arm 27 and the trap door 24 and returns them to their start position through a relay switch and suitable electrical connections (not shown). The cam prevents overlap of two pieces and assures proper spacing since the action of the switch also stops the bands from moving. A second piece is placed in the apparatus as was the first piece and a second cycle begun. When the machine comes to rest the second time, two pieces are situated in the machine with the first piece under the photocell and immediately adjacent the sewing station fully folded and ready to be sewn; and the second piece in the process of being folded.

Now, when the start switches are depressed, the photocell 30 located near the sewing head, i.e., the needle, which was interrupted at the end of the previous cycle, begins the sewing cycle. The sewing head starts initially at a slow speed and after the first few stitches, the sewing head and the bands speed up. The initial slow speed at start of sewing tends to discourage thread breakage at the start and sets the stitch properly. The sewing continues until the trailing edge of the piece passes the photocell at which time the sewing cycle is stopped with or without a delay time as desired. An automatic trimmer (not shown) on the sewing head then cuts the thread. When the thread is trimmed, the cylinder 43 raises and the trap door 24 returns to the start position. The next piece can now be inserted in position at the loading station. The bands 12 and 13 start to convey immediately on trimming and are stopped again by the action of the cam 28 and the index switch 29.

Referring to FIGURE 2, the apparatus may include a stacking device. In such a device, the piece slides down a ramp after leaving the sewing station. Air jets 33 located below the ramp, urge the piece into the stacker designated generally as 34. In the stacker, the piece rests initially on platform 35. When a piece has come to rest against a fence 36, a photocell (not shown) closes an electrical circuit which retracts the platform. A pneumatically operated arm 37 attached to the platform retracts it on guide bars 38 and 39 (shown in FIGURE 1). The fence 36 prevents the piece from moving with the platform as the platform retracts and the piece settles onto surface 40. The platform is then extended to receive the next piece. Means are provided for causing surface 40 to drop down as each piece is stacked. In its simplest form the means could be, for example, a spring 41 acting against the weight of the pieces.

FIGURE 7 illustrates how the work would appear at the sewing station. The work 70 may typically be a shirt sleeve portion. The line of stitching is designated as 71. In the figure, the upper structure of the sewing machine is removed for clarity. Numeral 32a designates the sewing machine presser foot.

Although the present invention has been described with reference to specific apparatus, it will be appreciated by a person skilled in the art that a wide variety of changes may be made without departing from the scope of this invention. For example, certain features of the apparatus may be used independently of others and equivalents may be substituted for the apparatus elements, all within the spirit and scope of the invention.

I claim:

1. An improved hemmer for hemming a piece of fabric, said hemmer including a folder having a horn and a shell spaced apart from the horn and having generally the same cross sectional shape as the horn, and said folder horn being in cross section along its length, a degenerative ellipse, said ellipse having a substantially constant major axis and said ellipse being successively r0- tated about its center, said rotation being such that the minor axis of said ellipse approaches zero as the angle of rotation approaches 90 degrees, and said ellipse being successively displaced upward withqespect to its center, along a vertical axis.

2. An improved hemmer for hemming a piece of fabric comprising in combination: a table having a smooth top surface; a first cloth advancing means frictionally engaging the table surface so as to move a piece of cloth inserted between the advancing means and the table surface; a folder cooperating with said advancing means, said folder being located beneath the table and said folder including a horn, and a shell spaced apart from the horn and having generally the same cross sectional shape as the horn, said folder being so constructed and arranged in relation to the table that a part of the piece being moved by the first advancing means may initially depend into the space between the shell and the horn as to engage the folder; a second advancing means contacting at least a part of said first advancing means and creating a captive area between said first and second advancing means; and said folder being so disposed that it guides the already folded part of the fabric piece into the captive area between said first and second advancing means.

3. The apparatus of claim 2 including means for aligning the fabric prior to its engagement with said advancing means.

4. The apparatus of claim 2 wherein said first advancing means includes at least one movable endless belt mounted on rollers.

5. The apparatus of claim 2 including a sewing machine located adjacent to said first advancing means at a point beyond the outlet of said folder.

6. The apparatus of claim 2 wherein the folder horn in cross section along its length is a degenerative ellipse, said ellipse having a substantially constant major axis length and said ellipse being successively rotated about its center, said rotation being such that the minor axis of said ellipse approaches to zero as the angle of rotation approaches 90 degrees, and said ellipse being successively displaced upward with respect to its center, along a vertical axis.

7. The apparatus of claim 5 including a stacker having a plate which receives the piece after the hem is sewn and means for quickly reciprocating the plate so that the piece to be stacked falls by gravity onto a stack, and said stacker having means for preventing sliding movement of the piece as the platform moves.

8. The apparatus of claim 4 wherein the first advancing means further includes means for raising at least a part of said advancing means away from the table surface to facilitate loading of the hemmer.

9. The apparatus of claim 8 including means operatively connected to said first advancing means to stop said means when the part of said means is raised.

10. The apparatus of claim 2 wherein the table includes a trap door which drops open after a piece is loaded and facilitates movement of the piece into the folder.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 47,632 5/1865 Goebel 112141 396,379 1/1889 Wayne 112-l41 2,738,746 3/1956 Maclsaac et a1. 112-203 XR 3,125,972 3/1964 Blumenkrantz et al.

3,192,885 7/1965 Timm 112203 XR 3,232,256 2/ 1966 Buckalter. 3,262,409 7/1966 Tucci 112-147 3,296,986 1/ 1967 Gansl 112-147 XR JAMES R. BOLER, Primary Examiner US. Cl. X.R. 

